****CARE AND FEEDING OF THE PET TRIBBLE****
or
Much More Than You Ever Wanted To Know About Tribbles
by
Myranya
Special thanks to David Gerrold, for creating the most popular SciFi
pet in the Federation, and of course to Gene Roddenberry, for
creating the Star Trek Universe and making this all possible.
CHAPTER ONE
WHAT IS A TRIBBLE?
Tribbles (Tribbeleus Pregnantum) are furry, almost round
animals, ranging in size from less than 3 to more than 35 cm. They
have no legs, but are nonetheless able to propel themselves at a
very reasonable speed. They can and will eat almost anything a
carbon-based life form can digest, and then some. They do not posses
eyes, but have other, highly accurate, senses, some of which have
not been fully explained as of this date.
The natural tribble is some shade of black, brown, or white,
but through selective breeding the tribble now comes in almost any
color.
Tribbles are hermaphrodites and begin reproduction before
birth, if the parent has enough food reserves built up. They are
also capable of heterosexual reproduction, which is important for
variety and evolution in the species. As a matter of fact, a tribble
will choose a partner if one is available.
A tribble can reproduce once every 12 hours, with an average
litter of 10, when fed free choice on a high protein diet, but the
tribbles kept commonly as pets are genetically altered and can not
breed.
Non-breeding tribbles make good pets because they are clean
and easy to keep. They are very friendly to almost all humanioids,
and most other Federation members.
--*--
CHAPTER TWO
ORIGIN OF THE TRIBBLE
The tribble was first introduced into the Federation by Cyrano
Jones, s.d. 4523.3, at Deep Space Station K-7. Its origin, however,
remained unknown until s.d. 8104.6.
The home world of the tribble is Cardegy II, a hostile planet
that is mainly desert with little food and several predatory life
forms. The tribble adapted well to the harsh circumstances; they
need little food for sustenance, and whenever food is available, as
will happen after one of the rare rain storms, it reproduces at an
incredable rate. Only the hardiest specimen are able to live until
the next rain period. Natural selection has made the tribble a tough
little creature that has few needs and is unsuseptible to disease
and injury.
As tough as the tribble is, and notwithstanding its
reproductive ability, recent studies have revealed that the tribble
has been threatened with extinction on its home planet more than
once.
In recent years, the colonies on Cardegy II have usurped some
of the desert areas, and climate control has rendered several wide
spread areas more hospitable, but there are still large areas of
desert where wild tribbles roam freely.
Close to the colonized areas, the tribbles sometimes present a
problem, since the presence of the colonists keeps many predators
away. There is plenty to eat because of the climat control and the
refuge of the colonists. The tribbles can form a real plague, and
several plans are being executed to limit their number.
Food and refuge is being sprayed with neo-ethylene, preventing
them from breeding. (See also chapter 5 on the use of neo-ethylene
in tribbles)
The Klingons have been able to genetically construct the
glommer, a tribble predator that looks most like a ball on rather
high legs. It eats tribbles whole, and works great against the
rapidly multiplying wild tribbles. The Cardegy colony took over most
of the breeding stock s.d. 42506.6.
In addition, Klingons are encouraged to move to the Cardegy
colony. A tribble that can move around freely will not come near a
Klingon, thus staying out of any of their recidences.
Non-Klingon colonists are not always happy with this last
method, claiming they get more tribbles because of their Klingon
neighbors, but truth is that less tribbles range in neighborhoods
with Klingons than in other areas, even if food and shelter
circumstances would otherwise be more favorable to the tribbles.
--*--
CHAPTER THREE
ANATOMY OF THE TRIBBLE
The tribble has a thick, muscular skin, which is used to move
not unlike a small, living tank. A tribble can also start itself
rolling, and can even climb reasonably well by pulling itself up
with folds of its skin.
Directly underneath the skin is a sensory layer, with which
the tribble feels, hears, smells, and detects wves much like sonar.
The mouth opening, located at the underside of the tribble,
can expand greatly to take in large food particles. It ends in a
'multi-functional tube', which extends through the whole tribble and
serves as an esophagus, trachea, and birth canal.
The stomach is a large digestive sack, in which almost
anything can be completely digested and absorbed. In cast a tribble
swallows something that can not be digested, it can be excreted
through the multi-functional tube.
The liver, gall bladder, and the two digestive glands which
are unique to the tribble and play a large role in its enormeous
digestive capabilities, empty right into the stomach.
Circulation takes place by the pumping of a blood-like
substance through ducts to the walls of the various organs. In the
organ walls it flows freely, and the oxygen is released in an
exchange involving a substance found only in tribbles, called Trey's
fluid, after the Earth biologist who discovered it. Only in the
lungs is there a similarity with the alveoli found in most higher
oxygen breathing life forms. Its hart, though muscular, is small, as
are all organs apart from stomach and uterus, taking a little of the
available space as possible.
Half the tribble is uterus. Because of its relatively large
size, the uterus is divided in smaller cavities. This facilitates
transport of oxygen and nutrients to the embryos.
Ripened eggs and sperm are released immediatly into the
uterus. In case of heterosexual fertilization, eggs and sperm of
both tribbles are mixed in the process. Thus, some eggs will be
fertilized by the other tribble's sperm, and some by its own.
Still, a larger percentage of offspring will usually be the result
of the crossing.
A tribble has no skeleton as we know it, but the skin is so
thick and tough that it acts as an exoskeleton.
--*--
CHAPTER FOUR
GENETICS OF THE TRIBBLE
Tribbles are hermophrodites -both male and female in one
individual. This means that, unlike an amoeba, which splits itself,
producing an exact clone, fertilization does take place, and a
limited gene pool is available. Still, tribbles will inter-breed
whenever possible.
The most important factor in selection and breeding of wild
tribbles is reproductive capability, but in the tribble used as pet
the size, color, and hair coat are valued higher.
The natural colors of the tribble range from black, brown,
gray and white to almost yellow, in solid, spotted, and roan.
However, through selective breeding and the more controversial
genetic engineering, breeders have come up with tribbles of more
exotic colors: green, blue, yellow, red and even leopard.
True white is dominant, then black, and roughly down to
lighter and lighter with cream and light yellow being the most
recessive natural colors in tribbles. Spotted is dominant over
solid, roan is co-dominant, and leopard is recessive to all.
Many colors will be co-dominant to some extend, so a black
crossed with a natural red will produce some offspring with a more
liver-color, or deep brown-red, rather than just pure black
offspring.
Genes are identified for true white, black, brown, grey, red
and cream, these are often called 'true' colors; liver, mouse-grey,
dark red (bay) and infinite other shades are various combinations of
'true' colors, working together to produce that certain shade.
Natural colors tend to be dominant even over darker exotic
colors. The exception is albino, which is naturally occurring, but
is recessive to all other colors. The reason for this is that albino
is not a real color, but rather an absence of color. Thus, as soon
as any color does come into the picture, the tribble will not be an
albino but instead show that color.
Albino tribbles are rare but can hardly be discerned from true
white tribbles. An albino will throw no color when
self-fertilization has taken place, while a true white will throw a
variety of colors. With non-breeding tribbles there is no way to
tell unless the parent is known.
It is of course possible to ascertain the exact genotype of
any tribble in a well-equiped laboratory, but unless there is a
special reason for it, like the breeding of a new color, the time
and cost involved are not worth it.
The tribbles sold as pets are all genetically altered and do
not breed. The exact process is too complicated to elaborate on at
this time, but for those interested I would recommend "Genetics and
Reproduction in Tribbles", by Drs. Prahyr & Taylor, Rigel IV, s.d.
25013.
--*--
CHAPTER FIVE
TRIBBLE BREEDS
MINIATURE TRIBBLES
A tribble is a miniature when it is less than 5 cm when fully
grown. Tribbles don't necessarily stop growing when mature; an
underfed tribble can grow larger when fed adequately, even though it
often won't reach its full potential.
Because in showing and selling miniatures the smallest
specimen are the most desirable, some breeders will deliberately
underfeed their tribbles. However, an experienced tribble-keeper can
easily diagnose underfeeding by the loose skin, dull hair color, and
in severe cases, lethargic behavior of the tribble. When deliberate
underfeeding has been discovered it will lead to expulsion of all
the offender's animals from the show and a warning from the UFPTSBA.
Repeat offenders can be expelled from all shows and have their
breeder's licence revoked. First-time buyers are recommended to take
an expert along when purchasing a miniature.
Because miniatures are relatively rare, all but the largest
shows will not split classes in color or hair lenght. All coats and
colors occur in miniature tribbles.
REGULAR TRIBBLES
This is the tribble most people keep. They are between 5 and
25 cm. Because there are so many tribbles in this category they are
divided into subgroups.
A) Longhair tribbles. A tribble is called a longhair if it has fur
of 2 1/2 cm or longer. The hair should stand up fluffy and not be
tangled or matted. Spotted and leopard tribbles with long hair are
extremely rare.
B) Roughhair tribbles. A roughhair tribble has hair of up to about
2 1/2 cm long. Most have many swirls in their coat. When groomed,
the hair looks fluffy, when left alone it curls lightly in all
directions. This is the natural hair coat of the tribble.
C) Shorthair tribbles. Shorthair tribbles have a short, smooth
hair coat which should lay down in one direction. They are the
easiest tribble to groom and keep clean. Most spotted and leopard
tribbles are shorthaired.
GIANT TRIBBLES
A giant tribble is over 25 cm. All colors and coats occur in
giant tribbles, but due to the rarity of giant tribbles most shows
will have one class, as with the miniatures.
The giant tribbles should not be confused with the tribble
colonies, which look like giant tribbles but are clusters of little
tribbles.
A tribble colony is an incorrectly sterilized tribble which
does not grow by itself, but instead multiplies and forms a colony
with its offspring, appearing to be one giant specimen. The largest
tribble colony observed till date was approximately 1m40 across,
with a weight of over 230 kilograms.
A tribble colony will break down into its individual units
when given a shot of neo-ethylene. The resulting individual specimen
will be safe, non-breeding tribbles.
Neo-ethylene can also be used to suppress the ability to breed
in a tribble that has not been genetically altered, but as it wears
off in time, it is not a reliable method for house-hold use.
Breeders do not use it, as the first litter after a neo-ethylene
treatment is usually small in number and the young tribbles are also
less likely to be show material. It is used, however, to controll
tribbles in the wild.
CROSSBREEDING WITH TRIBBLES
Some breeders have tried cross-breeding tribbles with various
other life forms, attempting primarily to come up with something
that has the shape, size and disposition of a tribble, but breeds
like the other life form.
This effort has met with some resistance, not in the least
from those who fear they might end up with something the shape, size
and disposition of the other life form, that breeds like a tribble!
So far, none of the attempts have been successful, since a
tribble will not breed with any other life form voluntarily, and its
self-fertilizing mechanism is powerful enough to override any attempt
at forced cross-fertilization, leaving absolutely no room for
experiments.
--*--
CHAPTER SIX
CARE OF THE PET TRIBBLE
GENERAL
Genetically altered tribbles make great pets. They are soft,
gentle and relatively easy to care for. They are great for kids, but
adults will also benefit from the calming influence a tribble
appears to have on most humanoid life forms. (Excepting, of course,
Klingons.)
In their natural environment tribbles hardly live to the age
of 3-5 years due to the many hazards, however, the life span of a
domesticated tribble can extend to 20-30 years.
HOUSING
A tribble is curious and always looking for food. They are
excellent escape artists, and should be kept in a securily locked
cage. Tribles won't run off when well cared for, but they will wreak
havok in the kitchen, and the kitchen of the neighbors, as well,
when allowed to roam free. They like warm places like chairs, so
risk being sat on when loose.
The cage should be kept clean and dry. A tribble uses grain
and grain products with almost a 100% efficiency, so the cage rarely
needs cleaning. However, if the tribble is fed other things, like
table scraps and food with a high fat content, it will excrete waste
products, and the cage will need to be cleaned more often.
FEEDING
A tribble can digest anything a carbon-based life form can,
and then some. They have an enormeous appetite, being mostly a
fur-covered digestive and reproductive system. To keep a tribble
healthy, however, it should be fed on a low-energy grain, with raw
vegetables as source for vitamines and for variety.
There are several good grain mixtures on the market, specially
formulated for either breeding, non-breeding, and show tribbles.
Supplements can be given to show tribbles to get the most out of
their hair coat, or to give underfed tribbles a quick boost, but
they are not necessary for a healthy, non-showing tribble.
A tribble fed on a high-energy, high-protein diet will become
fat, sullen, and its coat will look dull. Therefore, non-breeding
tribbles should not be fed the high yield feeds designed for
breeding tribbles, nor should tribbles be fed too many table scraps
and sweets.
A tribble does not need to drink when fed on mostly proteins
and sugars, but especially when fed on fatty food, or anything high
in salts, will need some water for the waste excretion process. Be
sure a small container of fresh water is available in case the
tribble wants it, but do not worry if the tribble does not appear to
use any of it -a tribble will know when it needs the water and when
it does not.
GROOMING AND HANDLING
A tribble likes attention. It loves to be petted, or to just
sit on your desk. It likes most humanoids, but despises Klingons,
since it is highly allergic to the pheremones a Klingon gives off
when active or angry.
Tribbles are easy to handle and will purr when content. Even
though their mouth opening is strong, a tribble has never been known
to bite. It is possible a tribble might bite a Klingon, but there is
no record of one holding a tribble long enough to find out.
Kids love tribbles because they are small, soft, and gentle.
Younger kids must be taught to put the tribble back in its cage, so
the parents won't find it in the food replicator.
If a tribble accidently gets pinched or otherwise is handled
roughly, it will emit a high shriek, usually loud enough to make
anyone let go.
A tribble likes to be brushed and its coat should be kept
untangled, but because tribble hair grows slow, they should be
brushed gently and not too often.
Tribbles do not like water and should not normally be bathed.
When thrown in water they will float, and can even propel themselves
somewhat, but they will avoid all that is wet whenever possible. If
it becomes necessary to wash a tribble, a sonic shower is preferable.
If one is not available, the tribble should be dried with a soft,
dry towel, or be blow-dried.
TRICKS TO TEACH A TRIBBLE
Tribbles can be taught simple tricks by gently coaxing it in
the desired direction and rewarding it with a small treat of high
yield grain or a sweet.
They quickly learn to come when called, or to squeak at some
things and purr at others. A tribble will also rapidly learn its way
through a maze, or recogize certain sounds and smells.
--*--
CHAPTER SEVEN
DISEASES AND TREATMENT
Tribbles are not susceptible to many diseases, since they had
to be extremely hardy to merely survive in their original habitat.
However, there are a few diseases and other problems that the
tribble owner should be aware of.
SIGNS OF ILLNESS
You can tell a tribble is sick by its behavior. It will be
very slow, sullen, and even lethargic.
Physical signs are a dull coat, loose skin, and a general
'sloppy' look.
If your tribble ever goes off its feed, call a vet
immediately.
DISEASES OF THE SKIN AND COAT
Longhaired tribbles are more likely to have a skin or coat
problem that shorthaired specimen, simply because there is more hair
for the vermin to hide in.
If your tribble is loosing its hair, and its skin is slightly
flaky, dandruff might be the cause. Dandruff is easily cured by
washing the tribble in lukewarm water with a gentle anti dandruff
shampoo. Always use lukewarm water, and dry the tribble immediately.
Because the signs of dandruff are much like the first signs of
summer itch, inexperienced tribble keepers should consult a vet.
Summer itch looks much like dandruff at the onset, but the
flaking will soon become much more profound, and is usually located
in a few area's only. Washing the tribble will not help, but the vet
can give a lotion to be rubbed on the flaky spots once a day until
the flaking stops.
A tribble is not preferred by lice or fleas, but if other
animals in the household are infested, the tribble will probably
pick some up as well. Anti-flea products for cats are safe for use
on tribbles, but dog products should not be used. Always treat all
animals in the household at the same time, and treat their cages,
sleeping places, and favorite hide-outs as well.
Regular ticks can not penetrate the muscular layer underneath
the skin, but the Bahner ticks in the Zehnar sector, and particularly
those on Deneb III, can. Remove with alcohol and tweezers as you
would any tick from any life form.
A tribble that is groomed too often will get bald spots, since
tribble hair grows very slowly. Gentle grooming, with a
large-toothed comb will work preventive in coat problems, but, as
with everything, too much is never right.
Never leave foreign objects entangled in your tribbles hair
(like a burr or a Symenn-his-hair-tangled). They can be removed
using coat conditioner or regular baby oil to slicken the hair and
prevent it from being pulled out.
DISEASES OF THE RESPIRATORY SYSTEM
Tribbles can get a cold if they get wet and are not dried
properly. They will not easily drown, but they hate water. They can
be dried with a soft, dry towel, a blow dryer, or in a sonic shower.
Tribbles are more susceptible to colds because their native planet
is so dry and warm that a wet tribble in a draft has little natural
defenses against it.
A cold is diagnosed by the tribble showing the general
symptoms of disease, as well as a sniffing sound, which the tribble
produces when foreign particles are excreted through the
multi-functional canal.
You might also notice a coughing noise, which is produced when
large amounts of air are being blown out of the multi-functional
tube, and it closes with a pop. This is common when the tribble
inhales dust or other foreign particles, and in and of itself not
something to worry about, but if it persists for any length of time
it could be a sign of a cold or even pneunomia.
A tribble with a cold should be kept warm, and given adequate
food -which means a breeding tribble with a cold is often better
sterilized unless particularly valuable. The tribble should be taken
away from the other tribbles and kept in isolation until all signs
of illness are gone.
If a cold is allowed to escalate, a tribble might catch
pneunomia. Pneunomia in a tribble should always be treated by a
veterinarian. The tribble must be isolated and given anti-biotics.
Tribbles can be allergic to some substances, but will usually
know how to avoid them. This is why a tribble will avoid a Klingon
at all cost; the tribble is allergic to the specific pheremones a
Klingon excretes when he is either scared, highly active, or angry.
As Klingons don't like tribbles, they get angry when one is near,
and will excrete plenty of such pheremones.
DISEASES OF THE DIGESTIVE TRACT
There are few things that are poisenous to a tribble, and the
tribble will know how to avoid most of them. Those substances that
have no smell or taste of course are difficult to avoid, so the
tribble should not have access to them. If poisoning is suspected,
take the substance, residue, or container with you and take the
tribble to the nearest vet office immediately.
All normal food substances carbon-based life forms can digest
are safe for tribbles, but they can be slightly uncomfortable after
eating large quantities of food high in fat. Take the fatty food
away from the tribble and make sure it has some water to help in the
process of excreting waste.
Over-eating is common in non-breeding tribbles. If it is only
an incident, the tribble might appear somewhat uncomfortable, but no
harm will come of it. A tribble that gets fed too much on a regular
basis will get fat, become sluggish, and its coat will loose its
luster.
Loss of appetite is unusual and very serious. If a tribble
ever refuses to eat, do not try to doctor on it yourself, but call a
vet immediately. The cause could be poison, or it might be a symptom
of another, serious disease, like pneunomia.
DISEASES OF THE REPRODUCTIVE TRACT
There are not many diseases of the reproductive system in
tribbles. One of the few things you might find in domestic tribbles
is inflamation of the uterus. Inflamation of the uterus is most
often caused by inducing abortion in a pregnant tribble. This can be
done, but must always be followed up by a cure of antibiotica. When
diagnoosed in an early stage, inflamation of the uterus can be cured
by a longer cure of antibiotica, but when further advanced the inner
walls will all be affected and the tribble willhave to be put down.
Spontaneous abortions are almost unheard of in tribbles, and
if it ever occurs, it is a sure sign of a serious problem. Call a
veterinarian immediately.
--*--
CHAPTER EIGHT
TRIBBLE SHOWS
All major tribble organizations within the Federation hold
shows, where owners of tribbles compete for ribbons, awards, and
even money.
Any healthy tribble is eligible for entrance in the shows, but
the owner must be a member of one of the tribble organizations, and
an NTBC (Non-Breeding Tribble Certificate) is required.
Breeding tribbles have their own shows, which is usually an
excellent place to find a good, healthy tribble. Breeders will
usually have several 'safe' tribbles with them as well, for showing
requirements and for sale. At larger shows, there might even be an
auction of breeding and non-breeding tribbles.
Most shows are divided in the following classes:
-Miniatures, all colors, all coats.
-regular tribbles, short haired.
-regular tribbles, rough haired.
-regular tribbles, long haired.
-giant tribbles, all colors, all coats.
-natural colored tribbles.
-exotic colored tribbles.
-grand and reserve champion, choosen from the first
and second places in each class.
A tribble can be entered in more than one class if the judging
schedule permits. For example, a shorthair, blue regular can be
entered in the regular, short haired, class as well as in the exotic
colored class.
Tribbles are judged on general health, condition, size
according to breed and age, brightness of color, and texture and
condition of hair coat. Breeding tribbles are also judged on health,
number, color and size of offspring. (Breeders should bring a recent
litter along with the parent to compete in any class)
Any tribble association can provide information on local
shows, dates, and specific requirements, if any.
--*--
CHAPTER NINE
LAWS AND RULES PERTAINING TO TRIBBLES
-It is against Federation law to keep a breeding tribble without a
valid breeders' licence and a current membership in one of the
tribble associations.
-Tribbles may not be sold, traded, or otherwise change owner without
a Non-Breeding Tribble Certificate (NBTC). The NBTC should be
complete, including some hair as a DNA sample. Breeding tribbles
may only be sold to and by individuals with a valid breeder's
licence and a current membership in one of the tribble
associations.
-A non-breeding tribble, accompanied by an NTBC, may be transported
within the Federation. However, some planets have their own local
laws pertaining tribbles, and not all Captains allow tribbles
aboard their vessels, so it is necessary to make inquiries before
taking a tribble on a move or vacation.
-A breeding tribble is considered a potentially harmful life form,
and the owner carries certain responsibilities as to the safety and
prevention of escape. Licenced individuals are allowed to travel
with a breeding tribble, but many ships and planets have their own
laws and rules here, as well.
-Any breeding tribble must be kept in an enclosed environment
conformed to a set of standards as to safety and prevention of
escape.
-Tribbles are not susceptible to manydiseases, but as any life form,
they are possible carriers of such. Some planets require health
certificates, tests, and/or quarantaine, as do some ship's
Captains. Here again, it is a good idea to check before taking your
tribble along.
-It is forbidden for a Klingon to own a live tribble. The Humane
Society has ruled it would be extremely stressful for the tribble.
As it would also be rather stressful for the Klingon, many feel
this regulation superfluous.
-And of course under no circumstances should a live tribble be taken
into the Klingon empire.
--*--
CHAPTER TEN
BREEDING LICENSE
To be able to breed tribbles within the Federation, it is
required to have a license and be a member of the United Federation
Tribble Show and Breeder's Association, or one of the connected
organizations.
To obtain a tribble breeder's license, it is required to pass
a test. The test consists of two parts, a written test and a
practical exam.
The written test includes the following topics:
-Tribble breeds and colors.
-Housing and care.
-Diseases and treatment.
-History of the tribble.
-Laws and rules pertaining to tribbles, including
local laws.
-Theories of genetic engineering.
-Genetics and cross-breeding.
-Adjustment of feeding ratios for maintenance and
breeding.
The practical exam includes the following:
-Tribble feeding.
-Tribble grooming and care.
-Genetic alteration.
-Recognition of breeds and colors.
Keep in mind that the number of tribble breeders is kept very
limited due to the enormeous fertility of the tribble.
--*--
CHAPTER ELEVEN
BREEDING TRIBBLES
The average breeding farm has about 50-75 breeding tribbles,
most of which are kept on a carefully balanced ratio that maintains
the tribble without discomfort but leaves not room for reproduction.
When a litter is desired, the breeder selects the tribbles he
wants to breed and places them in a breeding cage.
An exact measurement of food is given, as the breeder usually
will want to get a litter only from the selected tribbles, and not
an immediate litter from the youngsters, as well. This is done by
making sure the parent tribbles get exactly enough food for one
litter, and one litter only. This way, there will not be enough
nutrients for the youngsters to be born pregnant, as is the case in
tribbles when the parent animals have been fed free choice.
When fed too much, the youngsters will be pregnant, even if
the litters will be small if the over-feeding was little. When fed
too little, the two planned litters will be small, yielding smaller
offspring which is seldom show quality.
After 10-12 hours, the tribbles are fed on a normal ratio
again, also to assure no more than one litter is obtained.
After 12-14 hours the litter can be expected. The average
litter is about 10 youngsters. The youngsters are immediately
rendered safe by genetically altering, or selected for further
breeding and put on a growth - but not breeding - ratio.
It takes much practice to balance the feed ratios in such a
manner as to not starve the tribbles, or interfere with their
growth, while staying low enough as to prevent reproduction. The
margins might be as small as 2 mg. per tribble per day in
miniatures.
Less experienced tribble breeders, afraid to over-feed their
tribbles, often underfeed their breeding stock, but his leads to
smaller tribbles with dull hair and shabby coats.
Once the youngsters which have not been selected for further
breeding have been genetically altered, they are seperated from the
breeding stock and are fed more freely on a special growth mixture
of grain. They are registered and given an NTBC.
--*--
CHAPTER TWELVE
OTHER USES FOR TRIBBLES
With its high reproduction rate, tribbles have great potential
for various other purposes than just pets.
The tribble has been used in various cultures as a food and
fur source, but with the wide-spread use of the replicator most
Federation cultures have almost entirely done away with the usage of
live animals for either. Also, the large number of breeding tribbles
that would be kept on a fur or meat farm would create an emormeous
environmental hazard.
Tribbles have been used as test animals, when poisoning was
suspected. However, modern equipment can do the same task much
better, for there are many substances which are poisonous to
humanoids, but harmless to tribbles.
Before the alliance between the Federation and the Klingon
empire, tribbles were frequently used to sniff out spies. It was not
unusual for Customs at a large starbase to have a tribble in
addition to the sophisticated scanning systems. It is not unlikely
that worlds outside the Federation, which have no treaty with the
Klingons, do still use tribbles for this purpose.
Tribbles could, of course, be used as a weapon, when released
in large numbers in an agricultural area. This is one of the reasons
why the selection of breeders is so precise, and why it is so hard
to get a permit for transport of a breeding tribble. So far, the
tribble has never been used in this manner.
--*--
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
HELPFULL ADDRESSES
This is a listing of some of the larger organizations within
the Federation, and some that were especially helpful in creating
this publication. It would not be possible to print a list of all
tribble organizations in this book, but if no organization in your
sector is listed, the UFPTSBA can direct you to organizations in
your area. They also have limited information on tribble
organizations outside the Federation.
United Federation of Planets Tribble Show and Breeder's Association
Code 679340-CKBF-346
Sherman's Planet
Bajoran Tribble Association
Code 836124-TVLK-816
Bajor
Betazed Tribble Breeders
Code 689082-TTOS-149
Betazed
Earth Tribble Breeder's Association
Code 001434-DKQX-960
Sol III
Tribble Breeders of Rigel
Code 743148-AXHP-1744
Rigel IV
Tribble Breeders Sector 18
Code 118332-XBDL-0893
Starbase 495
Vulcan Tribble Breeders
Code 020186-CARE-7351
Vulcan
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CHAPTER FOURTEEN
LITERATURE
Beshar, Tonio. "Care and Feeding of the Pet Tribble", Magna III,
36405.1
Captain's log, USS Enterprise, Capt. James T. Kirk recording, USS
Enterprise, 4523.2/8.4
Cashy, Wanda. "The Tribble in Art and Literature", Shehyvan, 32654.0
Eliah, Darvo. "Teaching Tricks to Small Pets", Taurus I, 39821.6
Gerrold, David. "The trouble with Tribbles", Sol III, 7305.4
Gerrold, David. "More Tribbles, More Troubles", Sol III, 7306.10
Heinstein, Theodore Hans von. "Breeding Color in Tribbles", Sparrjae
IV, 25438.7
Prahyr, Dr. K. and Taylor, Dr. V. R. "Genetics and Reproduction in
Tribbles", Rigel IV, 25013.6
Roelof, Dr. Wayne. "Diseases in Federation Pets", Sol III, 40004.7
Tasis, Vynja. "Showing Your Tribble", leaflet, Starbase 66, 41031.8
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